Ceuse 2014

Liam finding a little rest on Bibendum © Oli Grounsell

Situated at the far right hand side of the crag, looking back along the sweep of yellow and white limestone, a series of crimps and pockets weaves it’s way up the more gentle side of Bidendums belly. Perfectly divided up, a couple of rests give you something to aim for as you negotiate the boulder problems. After shake out deux, with a heel above your head and a split finger pocket, a bit more power eases you up onto the black headwall. The holds of course, like they would on any route this good, just get better and better as the chain gets closer and closer.

On the opposite side of the crag, just around the corner from the ever crowded Berlin sector lies a whole new crag, or so it feels. The quietness alone gives this route some charm and resting on a jug far out right from the line of bolts with perfect conditions, a dipping sun and just GunsLee at the bottom was proper Ceuse.

Respectively L’ami de tout le monde and Face de Rat will for sure stick in the mind a little longer than the rest. For them to stand out really does speak volumes about their quality on a cliff where you almost become to numb to how good everything actually is.

In general my time here has been spent trying to do as many of these routes as I can. I didn’t really come out with any expectations or plans and after getting a few routes under my belt I did briefly try Dure Lime. I got all the moves done quickly and made some little links, which was all good and well and I found myself quite psyched for it. It was as good as everything else, but in the end I couldn’t really be bothered to put it above everything, and desire to just try and climb everything won out. I left it be, content that it’s definitely there for the future, because I’ll definitely be coming back.

And that’s that. 5 weeks of the best climbing and I can conclude Ceuse is not shit.